Hello Northern Territory... Alice Springs, Ayers Rock, The Olga’s and the centre of Australia!

It was a little over 1000km from Davenport to Alice Springs. Heading west from Boulia across the unsealed Plenty Highway, an overnight stay on the Marshall River, we finally made it.

People assure us Alice Springs has come along way in the last few years, but let me tell you it has a long way to go! Just to be clear, I am not going to talk too much about how irritated i was by the untidiness of the town, the persons greeting us on the street and in the Todd River on our arrival. I would be on my soapbox for hours. Let it be said that i was disappointed that many international and local tourists  visit this area and take away a very poor view of what Australians and life in the outback is like. In my view, no matter what the colour of a persons skin, the behaviour displayed and the way of living in these communities shouldn’t be tolerated. Our politicians should visit these communities to see where our money is being wasted!

Now that i have that out of my system, the landscape surrounding Alice Springs is amazing. We followed the Harts Ranges on our way towards Alice and had views to the West MacDonnell Ranges once we arrived. Expecting to see “The Red Centre” we were amazed by how green the landscape was. With a much higher than average annual rainfall we were truly lucky to see the country coming to life. In fact the red centre was now green!

On arrival we treated ourselves to lunch at Bojangles in Alice. I would highly recommend a visit here. Not for the food but for the history and  memorabilia. A saloon style bar and bistro, saddles for bar stools, boots walking on the roof, knick knacks and memorabilia from wall to wall, I didn’t know where to look first. Moving with the times, Bo’s has an interactive website where friends can log on 24/7 and see who’s in the pub drinking and even shout you a beer online!

We set up camp at a simple caravan park on the outskirts of town giving us a few days to stock up on food and warm clothes before heading to Ayers Rock. The nights were freezing and we were greatful I had purchased warm coats for Bear & Xena before leaving Davenport.

Excited to see the not so red centre, we travelled through the stunning West MacDonnell Ranges and visited Simpson’s Gap. We decided not to visit Standley Chasm as we had to pay to enter. (Don’t get me started on having to pay to enter our own National Parks.... it’s quite common in the NT) Instead of travelling through the entire West MacDonnell Ranges we decided to turn off and take the road through Hermannsburg to visit the advertised home of Albert Namajira and an early mission. I thought the history would be interesting, and it probably was, but on driving into the small community we soon turned around and drove back out. We first had to gain a permit to drive on the road to Kings Canyon and then we stopped at the home of Albert Namajira just outside of town. It was a disgrace, it appeared the local people didn’t even respect their own history, a real disappointment. Don’t waste your time visiting this small town... see the ranges like we should have.

Things were looking up the further from Alice Springs we travelled. We arrived at Kings Canyon Resort for an overnight stay and the park was amazing and dog friendly. Kings Canyon is beautiful and well worth the visit. With a little encouragement from Ben we took the 6.5km rim walk, a little tough, especially the stairs climbing to the top of the rim, but well worth it. The view from all sides was different and equally spectacular. It is a National Park so the dogs couldn’t join us for the walk, although Xena the little rock hopper would have liked to. The great thing was that the dogs were allowed to stay with the car in the parking area while we did the walk.

Moving along it was on to Ayers Rock Resort today. The drive is spectacular, i didn’t expect all of the hills and ranges but more flat desert plains. We stopped at the look out for Mount Connor on the way... I am not sure why this doesn’t get more of a mention, at first sight i thought it was Ayers Rock! We were able to stay at Ayers Rock Resort with the dogs too which was great. They babysat the camper while we played the tourist.

Day 1 at Ayers Rock the climb to the top was closed so we opted to go to the Olga’s. I found these much more spectacular than Ayers Rock. Again, we chose to do the long 7km walk through the large boulders. The colours of the blue sky against the red rock and green landscape were breathtaking.  Some of the walk was hard and steep but again well worth it. There are 2 main lookouts on the walk, most people travel to the first and then return but they really miss out. The second lookout is spectacular and a great place to catch your breath.

Day 2 was Ayers Rocks turn. Much to Ben’s excitement they opened the climb just as we arrived. A combination of a headache, aching muscles from the previous 2 days walks and freaking out about heights stopped me from making the climb. Ben tackled it head on of course and I joined him for the first small section. Words couldn’t describe the steep climb that just seems to keep going and going. Although i was left disappointed not completing the climb, I wouldn’t have met our new friends Stuart & Ruth if i had. Waiting for Ben at the bottom of the climb I got talking to Stuart waiting for his wife Ruth to return from the walk and we’ve shared a few drinks and alot of stories since then!

Day 3 we were back to the rock in the morning, we missed out on exquisite sunrise and sunsets due to heavy cloud. Instead we took a walk around the rock and viewed some fascinating Aboriginal artwork. All good things must come to an end as they say, so today we pack up and head to Finke!



Nice Hat! The start of our Kings Canyon Climb 



Ben overlooking Kings Canyon. Magnificent!

The Olga's Trail

The Olga's

The Olga's

Ben coming down from his Ayers Rock Climb!

Early Morning, Ayers Rock

No. 3 Recipe - Krystle's No Bake Passionfruit Cheesecake

I real winner for dessert lovers. Decadent and creamy! You can substitute the passionfruit for some mango or berries, or add slightly more lemon juice. Make sure you allow overnight to set properly & note that the lemon acts as a setting agent, the recipe won't work without it.

Krystle's No-bake Passionfruit Cheesecake

Ingredients:


250g crushed sweet biscuits
125g butter, melted
500g cream cheese, softened to room temp
1 tin condensed milk
1/4 cup lemon juice, fresh is best
1 cup cream, whipped
1/3 cup passionfruit pulp

Method:

1. Blend biscuit crumbs and melted butter together. Press firmly with the back of a spoon (or your fingers) into a 20cm springform tin. Chill.
2. Beat cream cheese until smooth, add condensed milk, lemon juice & passionfruit and beat till combined.
3. Carefully fold in whipped cream.
4. Pour over chilled base and allow to set overnight.
5. To serve drizzle left over passionfruit pulp over the top of the cheesecake.

No. 2 Recipe - Garlic & Parmesan Pizza Bread

A favorite with pasta but also great to use as a thin pizza base! Again use whatever you like to flavour the bread. You could add rosemary.... cheddar instead of Parmesan etc.

Krystle's Garlic & Parmesan Pizza Bread

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup warm water
• 2 tsp dried yeast
• 1 tsp caster sugar
• 1 1/2 cups plain flour
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 2 1/2 tbs olive oil
• Olive oil spray
• 1 Dessert spoon crushed garlic, fresh is best.
• 1 Dessert spoon of parmesan, i use the packet variety as it's easier to spread and gives a nice texture.

1. Preheat oven to 220°C. Combine the water, yeast and sugar in a jug. Set aside for 5 minutes or until foaming.
2. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre. Add the yeast mixture and 1 tbs of the oil. Use a round-bladed knife, then your hands, to mix until a soft dough forms. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Divide dough into 2 equal portions.
3. Spray 2 baking trays with olive oil spray. Roll out 1 dough portion to a disc and place on prepared tray. Repeat with the remaining dough.Drizzle with remaining oil, scatter garlic and parmesan. Bake in oven for 10 minutes or until garlic is golden and base is crunchy.

TIP: Keep the oil you have left over from jars of sun dried tomatoes... it is great to cook with and you can use it to drizzle on this pizza instead of olive oil. Great Flavour!

No. 1 Recipe - Davenport Dinner Rolls

I come across this recipe online in a bid to make some fast and easy dinner rolls. I'd go close to saying this was one of my most used recipes on the station and one i will continue to use regularly when i get home. These are great along side a roast to mop up the gravy, with soup or a casserole. Add anything you like to the base recipe to make them a little bit fancy... cheese & chives, herbs, garlic.

Davenport Dinner Rolls

Ingredients

---

• 2 1/4 cups plain flour
• 2 Tbs. sugar
• 1 tps. salt
• 1 package regular or quick active dry yeast
• 1 cup very warm water 
• 2 Tbs. butter
• 1 egg

How to make it

---

• Mix all dry ingredients in large bowl. Add water, butter and egg; beat with spoon until smooth.
• Grease 12 regular-size muffin cups if you are not using silicone.
• Spoon dessert spoons of the mix into muffin/cupcake tin.
•  Let rise 20 to 30 minutes or until batter rounds over tops of cups.
• Heat oven to 400 F. Bake 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown.

It's as easy as that, delicious and no kneading. ENJOY!

Davenport Days

It’s hard to know where to begin with all that we experienced in nearly 4 months on Davenport Downs. I apologise in advance for anything i might leave out.

 We unpacked the camper and set up our room in a quarters along with our friend Jo. It was nice to sleep in a normal room for a change, to have a real bathroom, a tv and not to use a coin operated washing machine. The dogs had a great house too. Of course, Ben made them a kennel near the house which was more than big enough. I have no doubt the dogs loved their time on Davenport!

One thing is for sure, I don’t think I have ever been so excited about going back to work! Being a Station Cook has been, without a doubt, one of my most enjoyable jobs in the last 10 years. The passionate foodie in me combined with a lack of cooking options in the camper trailer saw me itching to get into that big kitchen. Let me loose!

Breakfast, Smoko, Lunch, & Dinner. Usually for about 10 pax. No lack of beef! The day was long with breakfast usually served at 6am and dinner at 7.30pm but i loved it just the same. All the ringers favourites come flooding back to me.... it seems you still can’t beat a good crumbed steak. Mealtimes were definitely my favourite time of day... it was a time for me to sit down with the rest of the camp, socialise and feel part of the team.

When I first started work it was still very wet and we were lacking alot of supplies. No eggs and very little fresh produce. You wouldn’t believe how many things use eggs and how many things i learnt to make without them! In the dry season store orders would usually be delivered every week, but with the road impassable for alot of the time we were on Davenport we relied on Slip (Station Manager) flying to Winton to pick them up.

You would certainly be surprised by the food we ate, needless to say, the camp never went hungry. Most people probably think we survive on a boring menu of steak and veg but they couldn’t be more wrong. The station has a large dry store, a large shipping container which resembles more of a general store than a pantry. The typical fridge is replaced by a large cold room and 2 large deep freezers.... no-one was going hungry.

A station cook’s job is never boring! On 2 occasions i headed out to camp to cook for the others while mustering at the outstation “Palparara”. I did alot of prep work before heading out and i really enjoyed my time at camp. I had more time to relax and help with yard work. On another occasion we had an extra 7 company executive staff join us for dinner and breakfast. I had nearly 20 people for dinner that night, served in 2 sittings and of course i didn’t want to do anything in halves....i think i worked 16 hours that day but it was worth it!

On the topic of Palpara, things didn’t always go to plan at camp. On the first occasion we were flooded in and Slip flew the rest of the camp back to the homestead. Ben and I stayed to caretake the animals and gear. We were stuck at camp for another 5 wet days, just us, the dogs, the horses and the Yamaha 230! To pass some time Ben taught me how to ride the 230 and i loved it! Lucky there wasn’t room for it on the trailer.

Ben enjoyed himself too of course. I was worried about creating a monster after he got a taste of station life... and i might well have done. Ben was doing all sorts of work on the station, some electrical, mechanic, maintenance, mustering etc. Obviously though, unlike myself, work wasn’t what excited Ben most about Davenport but more so the pig hunting, bike riding and exploring. So, as most of you would already know, Ben, Bear & Xena did catch a few and big ones too. Ben’s mates from Mackay come for a quick visit before we left and caught a few more and by the end of it Bear & Xena  had earned some time off.

We only made 2 trips away from the station over our stay. One to Mount Isa to visit the doctor, this was a minor disaster as we had to drive through up to 1m of water at numerous crossings to get there, only to get flooded in and not be able to get back to the station for a few more days. The other to Eromanga at Easter. We had a great night at the rodeo for my birthday... Ben showed me he could dance if he was drunk enough and even performed “The Worm”! It was a great send off to spend a fun night with the Davenport crew before leaving.

The show must go on as they say.... and for us this meant packing the camper and getting back on the road. The roads were drying up and it was time for us to say “Goodbye Davenport”  and to our old and new friends on the station. Thanks to Slip and Case for having us. We were very lucky to see this country so alive and green this year. You wouldn't think you would send cattle so close to the desert to fatten them up???

Coming Up.... My 3 favorite recipes i used on the station.

Ben sitting behind his mob.

Flooded in at Palparara

Learning to ride the 230!

Xena with bandaged feet after wearing her pads off. She loved them!

My Kitchen.

Saying Goodbye Davenport.

Bon Voyage Brisbane!

Soon after arriving back from Fraser Island, it was time to say goodbye to Brisbane, family and friends.... for a while anyway. As most of you know, the weather was only getting worse since our return from Fraser and we weren’t too sure our original plan to travel down the east coast over summer was such a good idea. With most of the country in flood, we contacted our friends Cheyne & Casey at Davenport Downs and luckily picked up a few months work until things dried up!

First things first though, it was off to NSW to spend some time with my family before heading off again. Sadly that was a bit short lived as I was sick for most of our stay and then the rush began to get to Davenport ASAP!

That’s right, another challenge. By now Toowoomba and Brisbane had been hit by disastrous floods and we soon found out we only had a small window of opportunity to get to Davenport Downs before they too started to experience the wet season. Our friend Jo was heading to Davenport with us and so the planning began to find a way to travel from Lismore NSW to Davenport Downs QLD.

Easier said than done! News broadcasts were reminding everyone that there is no possible route from NSW into QLD but you all know how determined I am and it was now or never if we were to make it to Davenport. All that said, we found a way....via Dubbo and we had to leave the next day if we were to make it.

As exciting as it was, I was sad to say goodbye to my family so soon. It always seems to be such a fleeting visit and we had intended a much longer stay this time around. However, as fate had it, the next day we were packed, picked up Jo and on our way.

You did read correctly... VIA DUBBO! How well do you know your geography? Instead of travelling the normal approx 1400km trip from Northern NSW to Davenport in far south west QLD, we were in fact going to travel 800km south, IN THE WRONG DIRECTION, to Dubbo in order to travel north to Bourke and Cunnamulla where we could cross the border. Bugger.

If it wasn’t enough that we had to travel 2200km instead of 1400km, we had to tag team constant driving over 30hrs straight to ensure we arrived before the channel country began to flood. With the 3 of us, 1 person could sleep (if that was possible), 1 could observe and the other drive. We ended up doing this in 2 hours shifts.

WE MADE IT! I remember my Mum warning someone never to tell me i can’t do something. Where there is a will there definitely is a way. It certainly wasn’t smooth sailing though, as if we hadn’t had enough water and driving, only 10km from the Davenport Downs station homestead we got bogged! Can you believe it? We had conquered so much in the last 2190km and so close to our destination we had to call for help. Eventually we were  “Home” for the next few months and it was exciting to be working as a station cook again and for Ben to experience station life!



Nearly there.... bogged about 10km from the homestead at Davenport Downs.




After getting ourselves out we had to pull the truck out too!



Raining In The New Year!

Eventually, with some hesitation, off we went to Fraser Island with a group of friends to see in the new year. Bad weather  and further forecast rain for the new year wasn’t really the summer introduction i had hoped for on Fraser, but I missed our summer holidays and camping trips with friends too much to pass it up.

So rain, hail and a little bit of sunshine, off we went. Luckily for us the weather fined up when we arrived and although overcast we saw little rain in our 5 day visit. We set up camp with the rest of the crew on the far north of the island and settled in with a few quiet beers.

Again, as usual, the weather stopped us from doing a few things... fishing and swimming mostly. Although there was some fun in the water, a bit of swimming, surfing and drifting down Eli Creek, it was mostly too windy for fishing.

It was amazing the amount of water around the island from the heavy rain in the week before our arrival. It made for great entertainment watching vehicle submerge themselves in one deep crossing. It proved to come in handy Ben carrying all those tools when Jarrod broke his steering arm in the middle of the crossing. We also briefly explored Eli Creek and travelled to the western side of the island to try some fishing. No Luck.

We saw the new year in with shots, cocktails, fireworks and circle work on the beach... even a nudie run from the girls if I remember correctly. (Not by me though!) Then, too soon as always, it came time for everyone to head home. We decided to stay and explore the island some more on the last day taking in some great 4wding around the rocks at the north of the island and along the inland track back from Lake Mackenzie. The recent rain made the inland track challenging, especially towing the trailer, but WOW Lake Mackenzie...Terrific, Tranquil & Tremendous! It’s like a scene from a James Bond movie, as you’ll see from Ben’s pic below. I was somewhat disappointed we hadn’t come here earlier in the stay and spent more time relaxing at this amazing inland oasis.

So too, it was time for us to head back to the mainland but I can’t wait to revisit the island again, next time in warmer weather!

The boys heading for a huge break! Ha ha.



Flooded crossing where many people come unstuck!





Babysitter Ben...



4wding the northern island.

My name is Bond, James Bond!