We really were both itching to get to Kalumburu and set up camp for a decent amount of time and get the boat in the water. We hit the dirt once again and travelled to Drysdale River Station for an overnight stay before travelling to Kalumburu and the north WA coast. Instead of staying at the station campground we decided to head up the road another few km’s and stay at their Miner’s Pool campground. It is a beautiful area to camp, no facilities except the much loved pit toilet and a clear, freezing creek to take a dip in. So tonight was the first of many cold showers I was about to have in the next few weeks. In fact it wasn’t even a shower, but a very quick and freezing cold wash in the creek!
We packed up early and continued to head north on the Kalumburu road. It’s approx 200km to Kalumburu community from the Gibb River Road turn off. We were lucky to be travelling it really. While in Kununurra there was so much talk about the road being so damaged in the wet season that they wouldn’t re-open it at all this year! Given this we were expecting a shocking road but to our surprise it was very reasonable. The last 100km was a bit slower but we took our time and made it through the small community of Kalumburu, without stopping, and out the other side to travel another 25km to Honeymoon Bay.
Having travelled to Kalumburu with work while in Kununurra, Ben had visited Macgowans Island campground but not Honeymoon Bay. We decided to drive to Honeymoon Bay first to decide if we would camp their or Macgowans. Unfortunately for Honeymoon Bay, Macgowans was a much nicer place to camp and easier access for us to boat to the river inlet and close reef bommies. Honeymoon Bay campground was not very well kept, not shady and more exposed to the ocean.
Having settled where to stay we headed back to Macgowans and set up camp. You really have to be self sufficient here. There is water, probably not suitable for drinking, cold showers and flushing toilets, but no power. Lucky Ben put his foot down and bought those solar panels... they have been working a treat! Macgowans was reasonably busy when we arrived, it wasn’t the private or secluded area we were expecting, but it’s nice to have company sometimes. The beach itself is quite beautiful, a small bay with oyster covered rocks at either end. No good for swimming though as we are still very much in croc territory. Fish and Oysters were on the menu pretty well every day for 1 week.
Of course it wasn’t long and Ben had the boat in the water. First day fishing to the river and Ben landed a 1.05m Spanish mackerel. We couldn’t fish for long after that as we didn’t have an esky big enough for the fish! On other days Ben caught some great queenfish and we got onto a few Nanagai, cod and of course sharks at the small bommies offshore. For a while their I thought I had lost my fishing ability but after a few days it came back to me!
We met some great people here, shared a few campfires, swapped fishing stories at the end of the days, and I landed a great new fish recipe that I will be adding to my book. Joan and David are from Cooktown and were very kind to let us try their pickled fish. Ben and I are both hooked on it, as well as my version of my friend Heidi’s ceviche recipe. Both will follow this post. A must try.
We stayed at Macgowans for 1 week. I was ready to leave after 7 days in the boat but a week later all i want to do is go back. Definately one of my favourite places and one I am sure Ben will drag the boys on a fishing trip to! We said goodbye to new friends David and Joan and hit the road once again. This time about 200km, across the Mitchell Plateau and on to Port Warrender, Walsh Point.
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