Direct to Derby, WA.

So, we packed up and braved the “Goat Track” out of Port Warrender and headed for another overnight stop at Drysdale River Station. This time we opted to stay at the homestead camping area offering a well deserved and long awaited hot shower and washing machine! It had been near 2 weeks since I had a hot shower and it was well appreciated!

We were undecided about what to do the following day. Many places from the Kalumburu turn off to Derby are National Parks and  made it difficult with the dogs, there were other station stays too but at this point we had seen alot of dirt, many stations and enough gorges to see us through. With this in mind we set our sights on Derby.

It was sad to leave the Gibb River Road, (even though we were looking forward to getting out of the dust.) It was such an anticipated part of our trip, one we knew we would love and that we had dedicated to Ben’s Dad. Tony had talked so often of taking a trip to the Kimberley and I have no doubt that being with us all the way, he loved it as much as we did. It was everything he talked of and more. We will be back to the Gibb River Road and the Kimberley for a longer stay next time!

For now, however, the bitumen ends. A part of us excited to see the west coast and civilisation, the our part telling us to turn around and go back where we’d come from!

Mitchell Falls – Up To Date!!!

Can you believe it, nearly 1 year since departing Mackay I am finally writing a post the day it happened. Right now, I am sitting at Walsh Point in our peaceful campsite, overlooking the spectacular bay of Port Warrender in the northern Kimberley. Much to say I am far more relaxed now than I was a few hours ago!

Today we ventured back up the Port Warrender “Goat Track” to visit the Mitchell Falls. We had to do it this was as we were unable to take the dogs into the park. The walk to the falls is 8.6km return and the walk in was quite enjoyable. Along flat sandy tracks, through creek beds and over many rocks. The destination.... the beautiful Aussie outback at one of its best! We ventured across the top of the falls, passed the heli pad and across a few more rocks to face a spectacular view of the cascading falls. We sat, we watched & we enjoyed yet another great Aussie wonder. There are three main levels with numerous falls. At this time of year there is a bit less water than after the wet season but they are still amazing.

You know us, can’t sit still for too long and we had just walked over 4km in Kimberley heat, we headed for a swim. Unfortunately you cannot go into the pools at the bottom of the falls, the are unbelievably inviting. However, back at the top of the falls we re-energised with a sanga and a swim ready for our walk back.

In hindsight, I probably would have paid the $105 heli taxi that takes you on a 6 minute flight over the falls and back to the carpark. The only downside is that you have to book and pay at the carpark before starting the walk and we decided to tighten our budget and burn a few more calories.

The walk back to the car was a killer for us. The length of the walk is similar to that we did with ease at the Olga’s, as well as the difficulty, the only difference being we walked the Olga’s in winter and the falls in Kimberley heat. It was hot, very hot... so we took it slow and finally saw a shining light over the Nissan waiting for us with air-con!

It truly was a great walk and the Mitchell Plateau and Falls are a must see. We would love to see them soon after the wet season from the air, it would be breathtaking. There is always next time, but for now I am exhausted, Ben is in the boat putting the crab pots in and the hammock is calling me for an afternoon siesta!

Mitchell Falls

Port Warrender - Walsh Point. (Beyond the Mitchell Plateau)

Hold on to your seats, this was a bumpy ride! We should have learned by now not to believe what everyone tells you until you see it for yourself. Ben originally wanted to travel to a very remote place called Walcott Inlet... when advised that it would take us 14 hours to drive 200km and that their is similar fishing everywhere else we quickly renegotiated and decided to travel to Port Warrender, north of the Mitchell Falls. Another traveller had advised us that the road in was “not too bad”.

5 hours later we had travelled 100km. The last 8km we had to drive at a crawling pace, so slow that our speedo wasn’t even registering and we didn’t arrive at camp until dark! We could barely see the water in the dark, I was well and truly over it. Our bodies ached and I had every intention of getting out of their asap.

When morning came and I looked outside the camper I was met with a magnificent view or aqua coloured, calm waters. It was beautiful, but not quite enough to let me forget the rough drive from the night before. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to stay or go! I knew Ben wanted to put the boat in and I was way too grumpy to tackle that road again so we decided to stay put a few days.

A few days become 5. Unfortunately their was very little tidal movement at this time of month so the fishing wasn’t the best. We found a few good Barra holes in the creeks and Ben caught a few salmon.

Here’s a good one for you! Looking forward to some mud crab we took the boat up the creek to put the pots in. Within 5 minutes we turned around to see a croc smashing our pot and taking the bait. He didn’t seem fazed by us. As we continued to flick lures for Barra he continued to stalk us up and down the creek. Yep, you guessed it.... I was slightly freaking out by this point. I was convinced that at any minute this croc would leap into our tiny tinny and drag me into the water. Next thing I lost sight of the croc, I was realing in my lure and just as I got it beside the boat, BANG! A massive splash right beside me, I let out a shriek and thought a croc was going to take my right arm off! My heart racing like never before I finally realised that a Barra had smashed my lure on the surface right beside the boat! I was still panicked, now I was worried about the croc coming and taking my fish! “Get it in the boat, get it in the boat” I was still carrying on to Ben. I think he thought it was quite humorous. Looking back on it we can have a laugh, but I absolutely shit myself that day. Eventually we got the nice 75cn barra in the boat, the croc seemed even more cranky with us than before so we headed for home! Neadless to say, we didn’t catch any mud crab here.

We took a day trip from here to Mitchell Falls, read about it in the next post. It was the first time we travelled the rough track in daylight since we arrived, we were nervous but found it better than expected. With the wind blowing up after 5 days we decided to pack up and head for a hot shower at Drysdale River Station.

Walsh Point Campsite - Beautiful view to wake up to!

Finally my fishing ability is back! 72 cm Barra - the one that I thought was a croc!

Joan's Pickled Fish & Heidi's Cerviche - Addicted.

Don't be alarmed by the "No Cook" component of these dishes. The fish cooks itself in the lemon juice & vinegar!

Joans Pickled Fish

Finely sliced firm fish strips - We found Queenfish beautiful.
Finely sliced chilli
Fresh sliced garlic
Soy Sauce
White Vinegar

Method - You can adapt the flavours of this dish to anything you like. The method is basic, cover fish in vinegar, add sliced garlic, chilli and a splash of soy. Ready to eat in a few hours. Keep in the fridge in a snap lock bag or jar. We ate this nearly everyday, either by itself on a toothpick with a beer or on top of jatz crackers. We are still chasing some more queenfish to make some more.

HEIDI'S CERVICHE RECIPE

Mix the following ingredients together and let marinade for at least 2 hours!

Finally sliced fish – 500g

Juice of 2 limes (preferably), can use lemons if limes not available, but not as nice.  You may need more limes depending on their juiciness, should nicely coat the fish so that it “cooks it”

Finely diced red onion

Then, prior to serving, into the above mixture, add:

Bunch of fresh coriander, finely chopped

Salt/pepper to taste

1 red long chilli – more if you like it spicier,

2 tablespoons fresh mayonnaise – I use Thomy whole egg mayo  ( because I am lazy ), - check the texture, you may like to add more mayo – but this is not a traditional ingredient, so less is better.

Serve with crisp toast wedges, fresh bread stick or similar! Yummo.

#NOTE: When we were in the middle of nowhere obviously we didn't have fresh coriander etc. I improvised and cooked the fish with lemon juice, added some mayo and sweet chilli sauce. Ben LOVED this on crackers! In saying that, when I have the ingredients, the original recipe is DELICIOUS!