Sunday, July 31, 2011

To The North - Devils Marbles, Tennant Creek and Daly Waters!

Leaving Alice Springs for the second time we are heading north to the Devils Marbles for a quick overnight stay before heading to Daly Waters Pub. The marbles weren't as we expected them to be and overall very disappointing!

The Devils Marbles are directly beside the highway heading north to Darwin, and therefor an easy and VERY POPULAR overnight stop for travellers. We arrived reasonably early in the afternoon (lucky for us) to find only a few camp spots available and not a great deal to look at. After witnessing Ayers Rock, Kings Canyon and The Olga's just days before, the marbles were a bit of a let down. The camping area here has no facilities, everyone parks on top of each other and packs up to hit the road the following day... so that is exactly what we did.

Continuing north we got to Tennant Creek, no overnight stop but we decided to take a underground tour of the old gold mine. Of course, Ben has seen enough underground mining but he humoured me and tagged along anyway. The history in this area is rich and very interesting, we put on our hard hats and ear muffs and headed into the underground shaft. Along the 1 hour tour our guide explained how the miners spent days without coming out of the shaft, and rationed water that much that they'd pee in their gold pans instead of using water... not joking! Our guide started up the old equipment the used in the mine and we had a new found appreciation for the mining pioneers.

It was late in the afternoon when we arrived at the very famous Daly Waters Pub. What a great place... I was so tempted to stop and work here! A quick camp set up and off the the pub for a "Beef & Barra BBQ" listening to "Chilli" their local entertainer, songwriter, balladeer, poet, spinner of tall yarns, a champion bullrider and rodeo clown. My god we laughed and I don't think I have ever felt to Australian and proud of it! A truly smashing pub... the way they're meant to be, the walls are covered in memorabilia, bra's, undies, thongs, hats and all sorts of things people had left behind. You could spend hours looking at the things from years passed. I am so disappointed we forgot to leave our thongs behind..... next time!

Lucky for us we were able to chat to some guys at the pub that had just returned from the Roper River... our next stop. I don't think they had much of a clue really... they caught a few fish and told us the road was shocking but nothing could deter us from heading to the Roper Bar and catching some Barra.

The only photo we took at The Devils Marbles
Ha ha... Miner Ben!
Old Gold Mine Shaft

Ben eyeing off some old equipment.

Walking out of the ine shaft.
Jewellery store across from Daly Waters Pub...Interesting.

Daly Waters Pub!

Friday, July 29, 2011

Finke about it!

Those that know Ben well will know that there was no way we could drive back to Alice Springs the same way we had come and of course “I didn’t come on this trip to stay on the highway!”  Finke hosts the annual desert race from Finke to Alice and back again. Motorbikes and desert vehicles. As we weren’t going to be in Alice for the race Ben at least wanted to drive the track, so we did.
From Ayers Rock we travelled back to the east to Kulgera, only 20kms from the South Australian border, visited the geographical centre point of Australia on the way and soon arrived at Finke.What an eye opener. The locals greeted us with a fire in the middle of the street, about 30 dogs roaming around and needless to say we drove straight through and spent a nervous overnight stay about 50km out of town. The Finke Race follows the old Ghan rail track and while the history and ruins along the way are very interesting they are unkept, damaged and littered.
Closer to Alice Springs, along the Finke track we took the turn off to visit Chambers Pillar. The history here is amazing. Explorers left there initials and date carved into the pillar to show they had made it that far and travelled through. If anything, the Finke track made us realise how tough our ancestors would have done it, travelling through this country in a 4wd could be hard going enough, let alone on a camel!
Finally we made it back to Alice for a brief overnight stay before heading north again. I must make a special mention of another 2 places before we go. “Fresh In The Desert” is a fresh produce shop in Alice where you can get anything from Dragonfruit & Camel Ham (as we did) to potatoes and deli items. Worth a visit. The other is the small Italian pizza restaurant which served possibly the best pizza i have ever bought! Yum.
Camel Ham & Dragonfruit


Geographical centre point of Australia!

Driving the Finke Desert Race Track

Chambers Pillar.

Hello Northern Territory... Alice Springs, Ayers Rock, The Olga’s and the centre of Australia!

It was a little over 1000km from Davenport to Alice Springs. Heading west from Boulia across the unsealed Plenty Highway, an overnight stay on the Marshall River, we finally made it.
People assure us Alice Springs has come along way in the last few years, but let me tell you it has a long way to go! Just to be clear, I am not going to talk too much about how irritated i was by the untidiness of the town, the persons greeting us on the street and in the Todd River on our arrival. I would be on my soapbox for hours. Let it be said that i was disappointed that many international and local tourists  visit this area and take away a very poor view of what Australians and life in the outback is like. In my view, no matter what the colour of a persons skin, the behaviour displayed and the way of living in these communities shouldn’t be tolerated. Our politicians should visit these communities to see where our money is being wasted!
Now that i have that out of my system, the landscape surrounding Alice Springs is amazing. We followed the Harts Ranges on our way towards Alice and had views to the West MacDonnell Ranges once we arrived. Expecting to see “The Red Centre” we were amazed by how green the landscape was. With a much higher than average annual rainfall we were truly lucky to see the country coming to life. In fact the red centre was now green!
On arrival we treated ourselves to lunch at Bojangles in Alice. I would highly recommend a visit here. Not for the food but for the history and  memorabilia. A saloon style bar and bistro, saddles for bar stools, boots walking on the roof, knick knacks and memorabilia from wall to wall, I didn’t know where to look first. Moving with the times, Bo’s has an interactive website where friends can log on 24/7 and see who’s in the pub drinking and even shout you a beer online!
We set up camp at a simple caravan park on the outskirts of town giving us a few days to stock up on food and warm clothes before heading to Ayers Rock. The nights were freezing and we were greatful I had purchased warm coats for Bear & Xena before leaving Davenport.
Excited to see the not so red centre, we travelled through the stunning West MacDonnell Ranges and visited Simpson’s Gap. We decided not to visit Standley Chasm as we had to pay to enter. (Don’t get me started on having to pay to enter our own National Parks.... it’s quite common in the NT) Instead of travelling through the entire West MacDonnell Ranges we decided to turn off and take the road through Hermannsburg to visit the advertised home of Albert Namajira and an early mission. I thought the history would be interesting, and it probably was, but on driving into the small community we soon turned around and drove back out. We first had to gain a permit to drive on the road to Kings Canyon and then we stopped at the home of Albert Namajira just outside of town. It was a disgrace, it appeared the local people didn’t even respect their own history, a real disappointment. Don’t waste your time visiting this small town... see the ranges like we should have.
Things were looking up the further from Alice Springs we travelled. We arrived at Kings Canyon Resort for an overnight stay and the park was amazing and dog friendly. Kings Canyon is beautiful and well worth the visit. With a little encouragement from Ben we took the 6.5km rim walk, a little tough, especially the stairs climbing to the top of the rim, but well worth it. The view from all sides was different and equally spectacular. It is a National Park so the dogs couldn’t join us for the walk, although Xena the little rock hopper would have liked to. The great thing was that the dogs were allowed to stay with the car in the parking area while we did the walk.
Moving along it was on to Ayers Rock Resort today. The drive is spectacular, i didn’t expect all of the hills and ranges but more flat desert plains. We stopped at the look out for Mount Connor on the way... I am not sure why this doesn’t get more of a mention, at first sight i thought it was Ayers Rock! We were able to stay at Ayers Rock Resort with the dogs too which was great. They babysat the camper while we played the tourist.
Day 1 at Ayers Rock the climb to the top was closed so we opted to go to the Olga’s. I found these much more spectacular than Ayers Rock. Again, we chose to do the long 7km walk through the large boulders. The colours of the blue sky against the red rock and green landscape were breathtaking.  Some of the walk was hard and steep but again well worth it. There are 2 main lookouts on the walk, most people travel to the first and then return but they really miss out. The second lookout is spectacular and a great place to catch your breath.
Day 2 was Ayers Rocks turn. Much to Ben’s excitement they opened the climb just as we arrived. A combination of a headache, aching muscles from the previous 2 days walks and freaking out about heights stopped me from making the climb. Ben tackled it head on of course and I joined him for the first small section. Words couldn’t describe the steep climb that just seems to keep going and going. Although i was left disappointed not completing the climb, I wouldn’t have met our new friends Stuart & Ruth if i had. Waiting for Ben at the bottom of the climb I got talking to Stuart waiting for his wife Ruth to return from the walk and we’ve shared a few drinks and alot of stories since then!
Day 3 we were back to the rock in the morning, we missed out on exquisite sunrise and sunsets due to heavy cloud. Instead we took a walk around the rock and viewed some fascinating Aboriginal artwork. All good things must come to an end as they say, so today we pack up and head to Finke!

Nice Hat! The start of our Kings Canyon Climb 

Ben overlooking Kings Canyon. Magnificent!
The Olga's Trail
The Olga's
The Olga's
Ben coming down from his Ayers Rock Climb!
Early Morning, Ayers Rock